专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising at least two anionic surfactants, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, and at least one organosilane. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair, using such a composition, as well as a use implementing said composition.
公开号:FR3060326A1
申请号:FR1662587
申请日:2016-12-16
公开日:2018-06-22
发明作者:Estelle Mathonneau;Marie-Florence D'ARRAS;Henri Samain;Gregory Plos
申请人:LOreal SA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

® FRENCH REPUBLIC
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:
(to be used only for reproduction orders)
©) National registration number
060 326
62587
COURBEVOIE
©) Int Cl 8 : A 61 K8 / 33 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 46, 8/60, 8/92, 8/72, 8/58, A 61 Q 5/00
A1 PATENT APPLICATION
©) Date of filing: 16.12.16.(30) Priority: ©) Applicant (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme— FR. ©) Inventor (s): MATHONNEAU ESTELLE. ©) Date of public availability of the request: 06.22.18 Bulletin 18/25. ©) List of documents cited in the preliminary search report: See the end of this booklet (© References to other related national documents: ©) Holder (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme. ©) Extension request (s): ©) Agent (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme.
FR 3 060 326 - A1 (M) COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO ANIONIC SURFACTANTS, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND AN AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT, AND AT LEAST ONE ORGANOSILANE.
The present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, comprising at least two anionic surfactants, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, and at least one organosilane.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair, using such a composition, as well as a use using said composition.
i
The present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least two distinct anionic surfactants, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, and at least one organosilane. The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using such a composition, as well as to a use implementing said composition.
It is often common to use care and / or washing compositions for keratin fibers using complementary cosmetic agents called conditioners in order to improve the cosmetic properties of sensitized hair. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
However, these hair compositions are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can still be improved, in particular with regard to the deposition of conditioning agents on the keratin fibers.
Furthermore, the hair compositions of the prior art generally do not give complete satisfaction with regard to the supply of mass (or body) to the hair, of qualities of use (spreading and distribution of the composition, easy rinsing), nor in terms of persistence to the various external agents (for example shampoos, light, pollution).
There is therefore a real need to develop hair compositions intended for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibers which are capable of imparting improved cosmetic properties to the hair, in particular a contribution of mass (or contribution of body), to the hair, after one or more applications, and this in a sustainable manner; while retaining a good washing power, in particular a good foaming power (abundant foam, generated quickly, of good quality) and satisfactory qualities of use (ease of spreading of the composition on especially wet hair, good rinsability), and this without loading or weighing down the hair.
This object is achieved by the present invention which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, in particular intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts;
(ii) one or more anionic surfactants different from the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant (s) (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;
(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more organosilanes.
It has been found that the composition according to the invention has a satisfactory foaming power. It provides an abundant foam, quickly generated, which spreads easily on the keratin fibers and which is easily removed on rinsing.
Some users of shampoos, in particular conditioners, may have more or less sensitized hair, that is to say hair which is generally damaged or weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and / or straightening. Also, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties imparted to keratin fibers, in particular to the hair, preferably sensitized. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the body, the smoothing, the disentangling, the flexibility as well as the feel of the hair, without build-up effect. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention have a relatively non-aggressive character, their application in the long term to the hair fiber resulting in little damage linked in particular to the progressive elimination of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of the latter. .
In addition, the composition according to the invention allows good deposition of the organosilanes on the keratin fibers and the scalp, and thus makes it possible to obtain improved conditioning.
In addition, the composition according to the invention can confer cosmetic properties which are persistent in shampoos.
The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being stable in storage both at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C, especially in terms of its visual appearance and / or its viscosity.
By "stable" is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition which, after two months of storage has no change in appearance, color, odor or viscosity.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is non-coloring.
The term “non-coloring composition” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a composition that does not contain a dye for keratin fibers such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and / or couplers). If present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say that there would be no effect of coloring of the keratin fibers.
In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions "included between" and "going from ... to ...".
Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it.
Anionic surfactants
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant of alkyl (amido) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether type (i) and at least one anionic surfactant (ii) different from the anionic surfactant (s) (i).
Thus, within the meaning of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least two distinct anionic surfactants.
The term “anionic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
In the present description, an entity is qualified as being anionic when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium , pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
Polvoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids (i)
The composition of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids capable of being used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):
R ^ OC.HJ — OCH 2 COOA (η where:
- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9) phenyl alkyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
preferably R1 is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, Ca or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R1 groups.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether acids which are particularly prefere are those of formula (1) in which:
- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.
Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which R denotes a C 12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.
Polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether (C6-C24) ether carboxylic acids and their salts are preferably used, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C6-C24) amido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, and their salts and their mixtures.
When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, the 2amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2 salts -methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
Among the commercial products, it is possible to use preferably the products sold by the company KAO under the names:
ΑΚΥΡΟ® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
AKYPO®OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 38 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 38 NV (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4, A = Na)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 45 CA (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 45 NV (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 100 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 10, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 100 NV (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 10, A = Na)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 130 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 13, A = H)
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 160 NV (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 16, A = Na), or by the company SANDOZ under the names:
SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (Ri = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = H)
SANDOPAN DTC (Ri = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = Na)
SANDOPAN LS 24 (Ri = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 12, A = Na)
Sandopan JA 36 (R = alkyl 3, n = 18, A = H), and more particularly the products sold under the following names: ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)
AKYPO®RLM100
ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 38.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid (s) and / or their salts, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, better from 3 to 20% by weight and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional anionic surfactants (ii)
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant, different from the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts (i) described above.
Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphates, and / or carboxylate groups, and / or their mixtures, preferably sulfates.
The anionic surfactant (s) (ii) can be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and / or propylene oxide (OP) groups can then vary from 1 to 50 and in particular from 1 to 10.
The anionic carboxylic surfactants capable of being used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.
They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates of C6-C24 alkyl, and their salts.
Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The anionic sulfonate surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates; alkyl sulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;
- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The anionic sulphate surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulphate function.
They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylaryl polyethersulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to ethylene oxide units.
Preferably, the anionic sulphate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20,
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C24, or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular amino alcohols, and the alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium or calcium salt.
As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, the 2amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2 salts -methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,
- C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, especially C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;
- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,
- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;
- C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Among the anionic surfactants (ii), it is preferred to use one or more sulfated anionic surfactants,
Preferably, the anionic surfactant (s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and / or magnesium salts. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 groups of ethylene oxide.
More preferably used among these are sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (Ci2-Cu) alkyl sulfates, and / or sodium, ammonium or sodium (Ci 2 Cu) alkyl sulfates magnesium, oxyethylenated, for example 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide.
Better still, the anionic surfactant (s) (ii) are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium alkyl (Ci 2 Cu) ethersulphates, oxyethylenated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name TEXAPON N702 by COGNIS.
The anionic surfactant (s) (ii) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5 to 18%, better still from 4 to 16 % by weight, even better from 4.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the total content of anionic surfactant (i) and (ii), of the composition according to the invention, is between 3 and 35% by weight, preferably between 6 and 25%, preferably between 12 and 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic surfactants (iii)
As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The nonionic surfactants can be chosen from:
- alcohols, alpha-diols and (C1-20) alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols containing at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and having one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4;
- the ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units,
- fatty acid esters of sucrose,
- esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, preferably polyoxyethylenated having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils,
- N- (C6-24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives,
- amine oxides such as oxides of (C10-14 alkyl) amines or oxides of N- (acyl C10-14) -aminopropylmorpholine.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type, in particular represented by the following general formula: R1O- (R2O) t- (G) v in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
-1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
-1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- The degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16- (poly) glucosides 1,4, and especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
Preferably, C8 / C16- (poly) glycoside 1,4 alkyls are used, in particular in a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, comprising at least one Cs to C40 alkyl chain, in particular C8-C20, even better in C10-C1 s, saturated or not, linear or branched, and comprising from 1 to 100 moles of oxide d ethylene, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide; in particular lauric alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-4) and lauric alcohol with 12 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-12), and
- (C6-C24 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C8C18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides.
Even better, the nonionic surfactants are preferably chosen from alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20, better still CIOCI 8 alkyl chain, oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50, in particular from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20, better C10-C18 alkyl chain, oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 , in particular from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and the (C6-C24 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, and more particularly the (C8C18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 3 to 10% , even better from 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric surfactants (iv)
As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are non-silicone. They may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as , for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o) alkyl betaines, (CsC2o) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines alkyls and (Cs-C2o) amidalkyl (C6-C8) sulfobetaines alkyls .
Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the following compounds of respective structures (II) and (III):
R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (R c ) -CH 2 COO ·, M + , X '(II) in which:
- R a represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a . COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
- R c represents a carboxymethyl group;
M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkaline, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
- X ′ represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4) alkyl - or (Ci-C4) alkyl aryl- sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M + and X 'are absent;
Ra-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (III) years which:
- B represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 OX ';
- B 'represents the group - (CH 2 ) Z Y', with z = 1 or 2;
- X represents the group -CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 -COOZ ', -CH 2 CH 2 COOH, CH 2 CH 2 COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH 2 CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH 2 CH (OH) SO 3 -Z ';
- Z ’represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R a 'represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its form iso, an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, capryl disodium propopropate lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
One can also use compounds of formula (IV):
Ra ”-NHCH (Y”) - (CH2) nCONH (CH 2 ) n'-N (Rd) (R e ) (IV) in which:
- Y ”represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH 2 -CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH 2 CH (OH) SO 3 -Z ”;
- R d and R e , independently of one another, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z ”represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- R a ”represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a ” -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
- n and n ', independently of one another, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of alkyl (C8-C 2 o) betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C8-C 2 o) amidoalkyl (C 3 Csjbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and their mixtures), and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide). Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from alkyl (C8-C 2 o) amidoalkyl (C 3 -C8) betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant (s) is or are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5 to 15% by weight, even better than 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Orqanosilanes
The organosilanes which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from the compounds of formula (I) and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products:
R1Si (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
- R1 is a C1-C22, especially C2-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon chain, which can be substituted by a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear alkyl or branched in C1-C20, in particular in C1-C6, or a cycloalkyl in C3-C40 or an aromatic radical in C6-C30); the hydroxy group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; R1 can be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);
- R2 and R3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or ra3060326 mified, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3,
The term “oligomer” means the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
Preferably, R1 is a linear or branched, saturated, C1-C22, in particular C1-C12, preferably linear, hydrocarbon chain which may be substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20 alkyl, in particular C1 -C6). Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.
Preferably z varies from 1 to 3.
Preferably, y = 0.
Preferably z = 3, and therefore x = y = 0.
In one embodiment of the invention, R1 represents a linear alkyl group, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group, preferably of C2C4. More particularly, R1 represents an octyl group.
In another embodiment of the invention, R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain. In this variant, R1 preferably represents a linear C1-C3 saturated alkyl group, preferably methyl.
In another embodiment of the invention, R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon chain, substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20 alkyl, in particular C1-C6 , C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic). In this variant, R1 preferably represents a C1-C6, preferably C2-C4 aminoalkyl group.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyl; 2 aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, Nethinethyl) oligomers, and / or mixtures thereof; and more particularly chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and / or their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two organosilanes:
- Preferably, at least one is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products:
H2N (CH2) n-Si (OR ') 3 (II) in which the groups R', identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups, linear or branched, in C1-C6 and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
An organosilane of formula (II) which is particularly preferred according to this embodiment is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and / or its hydrolysis products and / or its oligomers.
According to this embodiment, the organosilane (s) of formula (II) used in the composition can represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0, 5 to 15% by weight, or even 0.7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Preferably, the other at least is chosen from the compounds of formula (III) below and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:
(R4) mSi (OR5) n (III) in which:
R4 and R5 represent, independently of one another, a C1-6 alkyl group, better in C1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n ranges from 1 to 3 and m ranges from 1 to 3, with m + n = 4.
Preferably, R5 represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, n = 3 and m = 1.
Preferably, the oligomers of the compounds of formula (III) are water-soluble. Among the particularly preferred organosilanes (III), mention may in particular be made of methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropoxysilane, their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products.
According to this embodiment, the organosilane (s) of formula (III) used in the composition may represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15 % by weight, and in particular from 0.7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The organosilanes used in the composition of the invention, in particular those comprising a basic function, can be neutralized, partially or completely, in order to improve their solubility in water. In particular, the neutralizing agent can be chosen from organic or mineral acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid.
Preferably, the organosilanes according to the invention, optionally neutralized, are soluble in water and in particular soluble at the concentration of 2%, better at the concentration of 5% and even better at the concentration of 10% by weight in the water at a temperature of 25 ° C, and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm.). By soluble is meant the formation of a single macroscopic phase.
The organosilane (s) (v) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 at 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polymers
The cosmetic composition can also comprise one or more cationic polymers, preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g).
The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under the conditions where it is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, that is to say the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression cationic polymer designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and which does not contain anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.
The cationic polymers capable of being used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 6 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, there may be mentioned more particularly:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:
r 3
-ch 2 -ç— o = c
I
I
AT
NOT
T 3 ch 9 -c— 2 I o = c
I
XR— N + —R 6 r 3
-ch 2 -ç— o = c
I
NH
I
AT
NOT
-CH
R, 2 Ço = c I
NH
I
AT
R;
N —FL
Ro
R,
Rc
RRo
R c
X in which:
- R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , esters of acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), there may be mentioned:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
- vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for example GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755 or else the products called COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573;
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;
- vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide dimethylaminopropyl quaternized copolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFOUAT HS 100 by the company ISP,
- polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. One can more particularly use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name of SALCARE® SC 92 by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by the company CIBA.
(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers marketed under the name UCARE POLYMER JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M ) by the Company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, are described in particular in patent US4131576, and there may be mentioned hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The products sold meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the National Starch Company. The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US Pat. No. 3,589,578 and US Pat. No. 4,031,307, and there may be mentioned guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example. Such products are sold in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company RHODIA.
(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers.
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bishalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bisunsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine .
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):
(CH 2 ) k
- (CH 2 ) t - CR 12 C (R 12 ) -CH 2 - - (CH 2 ) t - CR 12 (CH 2 ) k
Z (I) h 2 c.
'10 / CH 2 N t Y R 11 H 2 C.
C (R 12 ) -CH 2 CH n (II) '10 in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, an C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
- Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
Mention may more particularly be made of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), for example sold under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and of acrylamide sold in particular under the name name MERQUAT 550 or MERQUAT 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
N + -A 1 -N + -B 1
XR X “^ 16 in which:
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a group nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D an ammonium group qua3060326 ternary;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylenic groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;
in addition if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2) n-CO-DOC- (CH2) p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH2CH2O) x-CH2CH2- and - [CH2CH (CH3) O] y-CH2CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X 'is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.
Mention may more particularly be made of polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:
R 1 R 3
-N4CH 2 ) „- | A (CH 2 ) p - (IV) ' z' X r 2 x r 4 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 with 4 carbon atoms, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):
R.
- N + - (CH,) - NH - CO - (CH,) n - CO - NH (CH J - N + - A - v I z 1 z M z 5 i
X- I R (V) '20
in which :
- R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or represents rence -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
Mention may, for example, be made of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.
(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A):
—CH — CH— nh 2 (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):
—CH; —CH - (B)
NH — C-H
II
O
In other words, these polymers can in particular be chosen from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units originating from vinylamine and optionally one or more units originating from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100% by moles of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95% by moles of units corresponding to formula (B) , preferably from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mole, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mole.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095 , LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIGUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of the families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, it is possible preferably to use cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company AMERCHOL, the cationic cyclopolymers, in particular the homopolymers or copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, sold under the names MEROUAT 100, MEROUAT 550 and MEROUAT S by the company NALCO, the quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts; and their mixtures.
The total content of cationic polymer (s) in the composition according to the invention can vary from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight , and preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric polymers
The cosmetic composition can also comprise one or more amphoteric polymers.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term amphoteric polymer designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, as well as anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.
The amphoteric polymers can preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
(i) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and (iii) one or more units from a acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer are units with the following structure (la):
CH;
r S 2
O FL (la) in which Ri denotes H or CH 3 , and R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH 2 OH radical.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer only comprises the repetition of a single unit of formula (la).
The unit derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer of formula (Ia) in which Ri denotes H and R 2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer proper.
Preferably, the units originating from a (meth) acrylamido alkyltrialkylammonium type monomer are units with the following structure (IIa):
CH
F * 3 2 ^ NH
* 4 (Ha)
* 7 in which:
- R 3 denotes H or CH 3 ,
- R 4 denotes a group (CH 2 ) k, k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4;
- R 5 R 6 and R 7 , identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl,
- Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer only comprises the repetition of a single unit of formula (IIa).
Among these units originating from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer of formula (IIa), those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer are preferred, for which R 3 denotes a methyl radical, k is 3, R 5 , R 6 and R 7 denote a methyl radical, and Y ′ denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid type monomer are units of formula (Ilia):
R 8 Ί
CH 2 (Ilia)
O ^ R n in which R 8 denotes H or CH3, and R 9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 -SO 3 H.
The preferred units of formulas (Ilia) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type of formula (IIa) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acid monomer (s) of (meth) acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized, partially or totally neutralized, with an organic or inorganic base.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer only comprises the repetition of a single unit of formula (Ilia).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of type (i) (meth) acrylamide. Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70% by mole of units originating from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60% by mole.
The content of units derived from a monomer of type (ii) (meth) acrylamido alkyltrialkylammonium can advantageously be from 10 to 60%, preferably from 20 to 55% by moles.
The content of units originating from an acid monomer of type (iii) (meth) acrylic acid can advantageously be from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15% by moles. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 to 70 mol% of units originating from a (i) (meth) acrylamide type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%,
- from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol%, of units derived from a monomer of type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and
- from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol%, of units derived from a monomer of type (iii) (meth) acrylic acid.
This type of amphoteric polymer can also comprise additional units, different from the units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (meth) acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers of type (i) (meth) acrylamide, of type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium and of type (iii) acid. (meth) acrylic.
As an example of amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are in particular marketed under the names MEROUAT 2003 and MERGUAT 2003 PR by the company NALCO.
As another type of amphoteric polymer capable of being used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and chloride of dimethyldiallyl ammonium. We can cite for example the Merquat 280 offered by the company NALCO.
The amphoteric polymer (s) may generally be present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:
one or more anionic surfactants (i) chosen from polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether alkyl (amido) acids and their salts, preferably of formula (1) as defined above;
one or more anionic surfactants (ii) chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium alkyl (C12C14) sulfates, and / or sodium, ammonium or magnesium alkyl (C12-C14) ether sulfates , oxyethylenated, for example from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide;
- one or more nonionic surfactants, in a total content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, comprising at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, in particular C8 to C20, even better in C10 to C18, saturated or not, linear or branched, and comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide , preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide; in particular lauric alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide and lauric alcohol with 12 moles of ethylene oxide; and
- (C6-C24 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C8C18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides;
- one or more amphoteric surfactants, in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one or more surfactants chosen from alkyl (C8-C2o) betaines, alkyl (C8-C2o) ) sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o) alkylamidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines and (C8-C2o) alkylamidalkyl (C6Csjsulfobetaines),
- at least one organosilane chosen from the compounds of formula (II) and / or of formula (III) below and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products: H2N (CH2) n-Si (OR ') 3 ( II), (R4) mSi (OR5) n (lll)
R ’, R4, R5, m, n and n” being as defined above;
preferably at least two organosilanes, one of formula (II) and the other of formula (III);
optionally one or more cationic polymers preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g, preferably chosen from homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium halide, and
- Optionally one or more amphoteric polymers preferably consisting solely of units derived from monomers of type (i) acrylamide, of type (ii) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium and of type (iii) (meth) acrylic acid.
The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and their mixtures.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably between 30 and 90%, preferably between 40 and 85% by weight, even better between 50 and 80% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, and better still from 4 to 5.5.
The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, such as thickeners or viscosity regulators, natural or synthetic; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; C12-C32 fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils; vitamins or provitamins; nonionic, anionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preservatives; dyes; perfumes ; anti-hair loss agents, antiseborrheic agents, anti-dandruff agents.
A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the invention can be used as shampoos for washing and / or conditioning the hair; they are applied in this case preferably on damp hair in amounts effective for washing them; the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands can then be eliminated after a possible pause time, by rinsing with water, the operation being able to be repeated one or more times.
Method and use according to the invention
Another object of the present invention relates to a process for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a composition as defined above. before, followed by any exposure time and / or rinsing and / or drying.
The composition can be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to wet or damp hair.
According to one embodiment, the method consists in applying to the keratin fibers, an effective amount of the composition according to the invention, eventually kneading the fibers, optionally allowing the composition to rest on said fibers, and rinsing.
The exposure time of the composition on the keratin fibers can be between a few seconds and 15 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes. The composition is generally rinsed with water.
A possible step of drying the keratin fibers can be implemented.
The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed in% by weight of active material (MA).
Compositions (% MA) AT B VS D SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 11 11 11 7 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 2.9 - - - COCAMIDOPROPYL BE-TAINE 7 7 7 7 LAURETH-5 CARBOXYLICACID 6 6 6 6 LAURETH-12 4 4 4 4 LAURETH-4 1 1 1 1 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 - - - 0.5 POLYQUATERNIUM-53 - - - 0.25
LACTIC ACID 1.13 1.13 1.13 0.24 METHYLTRIETHOXYSILANE 0.75 0.75 - - AMINOPROPYLTRIETHOXYSILANE 5 5 5 0.75 PRESERVATIVES Qs Qs Qs Qs PH AGENT Qs pH 5 Qs pH 5 Qs pH 5 Qs pH 5 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
A mixture comprising the organosilane (s) and lactic acid is first prepared, then this mixture is then added to the surfactants and other ingredients.
The compositions according to the invention can be used as shampoos.
1 g of composition was applied to locks of 2.5 g of natural hair, then the locks were rinsed and dried. It was found that the locks thus treated untangled well and showed an increase in their volume.
权利要求:
Claims (20)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
T Cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising:
(I) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether acids and their salts;
(ii) one or more anionic surfactants different from the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant (s) (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;
(Iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and (v) one or more organosilanes.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids are chosen from those
15 of formula (1):
R 1 - (OG 2 H 4 ) —OCH 2 COOA (t) - ..... ............................ ............
in which :
- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a
(C8-C9) alkyl phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably R1 is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical,
- n is an integer or decimal number varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, Ca or a monoethanolamine residue or
Triethanolamine.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxyalkylenated a | kyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids are chosen from those of formula (1):
R ^ ÔC ^) - OCH 2 COOA (1) in which;
- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
35 - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10;
preferably R1 denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.
40
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether (amido) ether carboxylic acid (s) and / or their salts, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 25% by weight, better from 3 to 20% by weight and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen from alone or as a mixture,
5 - C6-C24 alkyl sulphates, in particular C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular Eh C12-C20; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
- C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- the (C6-C24) aGylisethionates, preferably the (C12-C18) acylisethionates,
- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;
- C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular Cl2-C20;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts;
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the one or more
20 anionic surfactants (ii) in a total content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.5 to 18%, better from 4 to 16% by weight, even better still from 4.5 to 15% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactants are chosen from:
- alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl (G1-20) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxÿlés and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of oxide ethylene and having one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4;
- your fatty acid esters of ethoxylated sorbitan preferably having from 2 to 40
40 ethylene oxide units,
- fatty acid esters of sucrose,
- esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, preferably polyoxyethylenated having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils,
- N- (C6-24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives,
- amine oxides such as oxidized (C10-14 alkyl) amiries or oxidized N- (acyI G10-14) -aminopropylmorpholine.
- nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type, in particular represented by the following general formula: R10- (R2O) U (G) v in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
-1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, comprising at least one C à to C <to, especially C8-C20 alkyl chain, even better in Cio-Ci '., saturated or not, linear or branched, and comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide; in particular lauric alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-4) and lauric alcohol with 12 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-12), and
- (C6-C24 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C8C18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides;
even better, among the oxyethylenated G8-C20 alcohols comprising from 2 to 50, in particular from 3 to 20 mounds of ethylene oxide.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 3 to 10%, even better from 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl (Ca-C2o) betaines, alkyi (C8-C2o) sulfobetaines, aikyl (C8-C2o) amidoalkyf (C3-C8 ) betaines and the alkyl (C8-C2q) -amidalkyi (C6-C8) sulfobetaines, as well as:
- the compounds of respective structures (II) and (III) below:
R a -CONHCH2CH 2 -N + (Rb) (R c ) -CH2COO; M + , X (II) in which:
- Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a RaCOOH acid, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents an earboxÿmethyl group;
- M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali, alkaline-earth metal, such
5 than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
- X 'represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4) alkyl, afkyl (Ci-C4) - or alkyl (Ci-C4) aryl- sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M + and X 'are absent;
R a -CONHCH2CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (Il I) years which:
- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX ';
- B * represents the group ~ (CH 2 ) zY ', with z = 1 or 2;
15 - X 'represents the group -CH2COOH, -CHz-COOZ ’, -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
- Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH 2 CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH2CH (OH) SO3-Z ';
- Z ’represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal,
Such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- R a - represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form , an unsaturated Ci7 group.
25 - the compounds of formula (IV):
R a -NHCH (Y '') - (CH2) nCONH (CH 2 ) nN (Rd) (Re) (IV) in which:
- Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ ”, -CH2-CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH2CH (OH) SO 3 -Z”;
30 - Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z ”represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra ·· represents a G10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra ”-CQÔH acid
Preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
- n and n ’, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amphoteric surfactants with a total content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight,
40 preferably in a content ranging from 3.5 to 15% by weight, even better from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organosilanes are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the compounds of formula (I) and / or their ollgomers and / or their hydrolysis products:
R1Si (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
5 - RI is a C1-C22, especially G2-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon chain, which can be substituted by a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear alkyl or branched in C1-C20, in particular in C1-C6, or a cycloalkyl in C3-C40 or an aromatic radical in G6-C30); the hydroxy (OH) group, a
Thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; RI can be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);
R2 and R3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
15 - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- k denotes an integer ranging from O to 2, with z + x + y = 3,
20
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the organosilanes are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the compounds of formula (I) and / or their oiomomers and / or their hydrolysis products:
R1Si (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
25 - R1 represents a linear alkyl group, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group, preferably C2-C4; more particularly, R1 represents an octyl group; or
- R1 is a C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or in30 saturated; preferably a linear alkyl group saturated in C1-C3, preferably methyl; or
- R1 is a hydrocarbon chain in G1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = alkyl in G1C20, in particular C1-C6, cycloalkyl in C3-C40 or aromatic in G6-C30 ); of
Preferably a G1-C6, preferably C2-C4 aminoalkyl group.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the organosilanes in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 15 % in weight,
40 better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two organosilanes:
preferably, at least one being chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products:
H2N (CH2) n-Si (OR ') 3 (II) in which the groups R', identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups, linear or branched, then C1-C6 and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; preferably 3-amioopropyltriethoxysilahe (APTES) and / or its hydrolysis products and / or its oligomers;
in particular the organosilane (s) of formula (II) representing from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even 0.7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Preferably, the other at least being chosen from the compounds of formula (III) below and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:
(R4) mSi (OR5) n (III) in which:
R4 and R5 represent, independently of one another, a C1-6 alkyl group, better still in C1-4 alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n ranges from 1 to 3 'and m ranges from 1 to 3, with m + n = 4;
preferably, R5 represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, n = 3 and m-1;
even better chosen from methyltriethoxysilane, methyltripropoxysilane, their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products.
in particular the organosilane (s) of formula (III) representing from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0 , 7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequiyalents / gram (meq / g); preferably with a total content varying from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[17" id="c-fr-0017]
17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more amphoteric polymers, in particular chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
(i) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamide-type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and (iii) one or more units from a acid monomer of (acrylic) acid type;
preferably in a total amount of between 0.05 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[18" id="c-fr-0018]
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, in particular at a total content of between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably between 30 and 90%, preferably between 40 and 85% by weight, even better between 50 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[19" id="c-fr-0019]
19. A method for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a composition according to one of the preceding claims, followed by a possible exposure time and / or rinsing and / or drying.
15
[0020]
20. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 18, for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
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同族专利:
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EP2335680A1|2009-12-18|2011-06-22|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Cleansing composition|
FR2954129A1|2009-12-23|2011-06-24|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND OF THE SILICON, AT LEAST TWO ANIONIC SURFACTANTS AND AT LEAST ONE AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT|
US20150297485A1|2014-04-17|2015-10-22|Evonik Industries Ag|Surfactant compositions and formulations with a high oil content|WO2020001984A1|2018-06-28|2020-01-02|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition comprising anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, at least two organosilanes and associative cationic polymers, cosmetic treatment process and use|
WO2020089359A1|2018-10-31|2020-05-07|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Surfactant-containing cosmetic product combined with bis amine, for cleaning and care of human hair|
FR3089801A1|2018-12-17|2020-06-19|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition comprising the combination of particular anionic surfactants and non-silicone liquid fatty substances, and cosmetic treatment method|
法律状态:
2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
2018-06-22| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180622 |
2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1662587A|FR3060326B1|2016-12-16|2016-12-16|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO ANIONIC SURFACTANTS, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND AN AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT, AND AT LEAST ONE ORGANOSILANE|
FR1662587|2016-12-16|FR1662587A| FR3060326B1|2016-12-16|2016-12-16|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO ANIONIC SURFACTANTS, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND AN AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT, AND AT LEAST ONE ORGANOSILANE|
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